The Buzz About Foodies
August 2000
By
Tom Luther
|
Jody
Denton's of Azie - The Nine Bites Sampler of appetizers
shown will be profiled in the September issue of
Food & Beverage International |
One of the best
marketing studies about restaurants and their clientele has just
been released. We have all heard about foodies. Everybody has
an opinion or a story about foodiedom. Now you can get the facts,
according to the San Francisco Convention and Visitors
Bureau (SFCVB). Their recently released marketing survey,
"The 1999 American Food & Travel Survey", by David
Bratton of the SFCVB, is a detailed, factual analysis
about foodies and restaurants, not only the SF Bay area, but also
nationally. If you're interested in trends, there is plenty of
info to study.
Dieting, the topic of conversation for many people, seems to have
influenced responses in the category of "trends people would
like to see". For instance, 2 of the top 3 most desired trends
were "more light but flavorful foods" (55.7%) and "more
low calorie foods" (52.8%). Add to this mix, "more meat
entrees" (41.1%), and you see a pattern. I guess there are
lots of folks like my International Foodie friend, Seika
Stanley, who is trying the high protein diet. The good
news is that desserts are still very popular. Wine, spirits and
beer, not exactly diet friendly, have also not declined in sales.
So maybe we just talk about diets to justify our perceived need
to look good and go to restaurants to indulge our real need to
feel good? This would help explain the diversity of successful
restaurants.
The new reincarnation of the dining room at the Canterbury
Hotel is the perfect example of the high protein menu.
Chef Michael Baker balances the art of culinary
sophistication while featuring Certified Angus Beef, Dry Aged
21 days in house. The appetizer menu reflects his Hawaiian culinary
heritage with Shrimp and Scallop Potstickers w/green papaya
salad, sweet chili vinaigrette, being spicey hot. The Baby
Spinach Salad w/honey sesame dressing, warm grilled shrimp yakitori
appeared in an exotic tent-like form. This artistic flair
compliments the Paul Bunyon sized portions such as the Grilled
Petite Filet Mignon and Lobster-Sea Scallop Medallion
w/Lobster demi, ginger sweet potato mash, grilled asparagus w/
a lovely spiral sprig of honey glaze atop the plate. (Note:
42% wanted larger portions served in the list of the "trends
patrons would like", SFCVB Survey).
Chef Baker's piece de resistance is his truly memorable White
Chocolate Kona Coffee Bread Pudding, not at all like the
traditional old fashioned thing of goop, this custard-like brioche
style is light and flavorful, worth a pilgrimage for chocoholics.
Leave your diet at home or you'll miss a thing of beauty. Mr.
Baker, we salute your masterful style.
A real paragon of protein, a take no prisoners, this ain't for
wimps, Steak Tartare totin' menu is featured at Paragon,
the newest Pac Bell Park neighborhood restaurant. This American
Brasserie actually has a French-American styled menu honed by
Chef Brian Lewis and his A team, Amy
Tauber and Jim Locascio. His East Coast,
CIA, Johnson and Wales roots are well represented by the Salt
Cod and Clam Chowder, Escargot, Tuna Carpaccio, Lobster and Crisp
Striped Bass presentations.
The Ritz Carlton, Four Seasons,
Restaurant Lutece experience shows up in Housemade
Pork and Fennel Sausage baked in pastry, Duck Confit
and Spinach Salad. Their wine list features California wines
with a diverse wine by the glass selection. This is a serious
brasserie with 20 ft. ceilings and huge cherry wood back bar,
reminiscent of old S F, when pub crawling was a real sport. Owners
Tim Harmon and Jon Swanson are pros,
and it shows.
If you want to lower your blood pressure and raise the sensations
on your palate, Jody Denton's Azie features Asian
inspired French, which translates to a Japanese style presentation
and many portions. The Nine Bites Sampler of Appetizers
is worth the trip alone. It's located on Folsom Street, (an almost
easy walk from Moscone center), and its right next door to his
other restaurant, Lulu's, a French country style
restaurant that has long been a landmark of San Francisco.
The classic S F restaurant and bar revival scene is the feature
at P.J. Mulhearn's in North Beach. It reminds
me of my Union St. days as the owner of The Mother Lode
Restaurant. As a matter of fact, I recognized people
at P.J.'s from back then. Owner Bob Mulhearn
goes way back in the biz, including Moose's, and is a bit of a
classic himself, as are his partners P.J. Carlesimo
and Bill Burke. Chef Matthew McLinn
has the drill perfected in concert with the scene at P.J.'s with
classics like Filet Mignon Tartar Crostini; Molasses Glazed
Rack of Lamb; Roast Orange Pressed Chicken; Medallion of Atlantic
Salmon; New York Strip Steak and Crème Brulee. The
protein diet devotees will love this place. The booths are so
big and comfortable you could lie down and take a nap…mmm,
maybe this is comfort food and comfort ambiance to match?
This classic revival scene, Chinese style, couldn't be better
represented than Shanghai 1930. True to this
era, when Shanghai was known as the "Paris of the Orient",
the menu recreates the melding of different International Cuisines,
including the distant provinces of Sichuan, Hunan, Beijing and
Canton. The first fusion food? The style of service is from this
era when floor captains, tableside cart preparations and a "Floor
Manager" prevailed over all the action. George Leung
is "The Man" on the floor, guarding the traditions of
elegance for Owner George Chen, who has also
been the creative force behind Betelnut (S F
); Xanadu (Berkeley); LongLife Noodle
Co. (various locations); Qi ( S F International
Airport International Terminal); and Dragon Fly
(Corte Madera). Chef Jason Xu and team mate chef
Tony Gu preside over the formidable and extensive menu.
Their Peking Duck is the best I've had. Thank you George,
not only for the beautiful ambiance replete with antiquities,
and the beautiful art deco style lounge with live jazz, but also
the private cigar lounge.
For a classic ambiance that oozes of romantic charm, my vote goes
to Absinthe, on Hayes in S F. Sitting on lush
blood red leather and mohair banquettes, surrounded by a mural
of a dining room scene in a whimsical ...
|